#4 WARUNG BETUTU GILIMANUK
A large, eatery-style warung with cool tiled floors and polished wooden tables, this is the perfect place to be introduced to a range of regional Balinese dishes. With four locations around Bali, this warung knows their betutu.
The signature dish here, betutu, is done two ways: with either duck or chicken. First marinated in a killer bumbu gede, the bebek betutu (roasted duck) is then slow braised until it’s so soft and tender that it seems to melt off the bones as you eat it. This one is both succulent and eye-wateringly spicy, but oh-so-good.
For the braver gastronomes, a must-try is the sate kakul, small freshwater apple snails that are one of the island’s most unique regional specialties. Relieved to discover that there’s no need to carnivorously suck the snails out of their shells, they’re skewered onto wooden sate sticks and served with roasted peanut satay sauce. Chewier than I imagined, kakul is not exactly a local version of soft escargot.
At the other end of the texture spectrum, deep fried baby eels offer a satisfying crunch alongside a plate of dark green sayur gonda (blanched watercress).
Other dishes I recommend you trying here are the grilled prawns bumbu merah, and the ayam lawar with chicken liver, a chopped-up combination of jackfruit with young coconut, chopped liver, roasted coconut, deep fried garlic and shallots all with a healthy dose of bumbu gede.
A great vegetarian option is the lawar jukut kacang with bean sprouts, coconut rubbed with turmeric and long beans in a dressing of sugar, zingy lemo and salt.
Tip: you’ll know you’re at the right place when you see the scary looking tribal clown sign!
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