#7 WARUNG ODAH (PANTAI SEGARA SANUR)
This tiny, humble shack on the side of the road in Sanur is a must-visit if you’re in the area. A family-run business, this is a mother-daughter operation, and they’re a hive of activity.
I’m the first to admit that it doesn’t look like much when you find it, but the smile you get from the family matriach as you walk in is a reminder that it’s not just about the food, but about the spirit of the experience too.
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Here’s it’s all about sapi (beef), and judging from the packed bench seats, it’s more than popular with the locals. (Kind of interesting, considering that hindus don’t eat beef!)
First up to try is the sapi nasi campur, complete with a less-than-appetising hit of dry, overcooked liver. It doesn’t sound (or look) that nice, but it does have its place in this traditional dish, as does the crispy beef skin that puffs up like crackling on a Sunday roast.
The accompaniments are traditional, done without a twist. The tum sapi (finely chopped beef meat) is marinated in, oh yes, the Balinese favourite of bumbu gede.
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Between you and I, I can see why Balinese cuisine hasn’t really taken off internationally. It’s basically brought to you by the all-rounder, bumbu gede, which means that quite a few of the dishes have a similar taste and flavour undertone.
Getting back to the tum sapi though, these little minced meat steamed parcels are actually full of flavour. An absolute delight when opened up, steaming and soft, the juices running from the side.
My favourite was the sapi serapah, which I am already thinking about bringing into a dish at Sarong with slow-braised short rib beef. Hard to imagine how such a rustic street food plate might be transformed into a fine dining dish, I know, but stay tuned in the coming months, you might be surprised.
Tip: Served up with hands not utensils, and eaten with hands, this warung is a village-style experience. Not the most hygienic, but authentic!
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